Ram4ever's Photobucket 81 Dodge B250 Ram van album media

Mill Supply & Rustrepair.com Dodge van replacement panels

Ram4ever — Thu, 26 Nov 2009 02:08:50 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Mill Supply & Rustrepair.com Dodge van replacement panels - MillSupply-RustrepaircomDodgevanpar.jpg

I'm replacing my rocker panels and buying them from these folks.

Cen Tech 95520 Digital paint thickness gauge

Ram4ever — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 21:27:25 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Cen Tech 95520 Digital paint thickness gauge - Centech95520DigitalPaintCoatingThic.jpg

Finally a way to reduce errors in getting paint down in the correct thickness per coat!

Spare tire winch assy

Ram4ever — Wed, 25 Nov 2009 21:27:19 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Spare tire winch assy - IMG_4029.jpg

This was from a Dodge 2500 pickup, so it should be heavy enough for me to use in my custom underbody tire carrier.

Haul Master 5000 pound step bumper receiver

Ram4ever — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 23:19:15 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Haul Master 5000 pound step bumper receiver - haulmaster5000poundstepbumperreceiv.gif

5000 pound tow capacity, 550 pound tongue weight. Got it at harbor Freight for $15.

Holes for the inlet & outlet and reinforcing plate

Ram4ever — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 20:05:39 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Holes for the inlet & outlet and reinforcing plate - IMG_3913.jpg

This was a bit nerve wracking - I had to be sure to avoid drilling into any refrigerant lines. I used a stud finder and didn't see any in these locations. I drilled a small pilot hole for each, and fished around in the foam to be certain. When I finally cut the large 2" holes on the interior, I found that I missed a refrigerant line by about 1"! This was just enough for me to install some huge 5/8" flatwashers behind the wall to add even more reinforcement than the 16 gauge steel plate which goes on the exterior, over these holes.

Ready to go together at last!

Ram4ever — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 20:05:37 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Ready to go together at last! - IMG_3914.jpg

The two little internal couplers between the exterior air fittings and the copper coils were tricky to make. Getting the copper coils indexed and angled correctly took quite a while too. After lots of experiments, I only had to trim one of the coils - maximizing the length of the air path.

90 degree and 45 degree fittings on the sump/siphon brake

Ram4ever — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 20:05:35 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

90 degree and 45 degree fittings on the sump/siphon brake - IMG_3917.jpg

The 40 foot long copper coils soldered together

Ram4ever — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 20:05:31 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

The 40 foot long copper coils soldered together - IMG_3920.jpg

I had to mock up everything in the refrigerator, and mark the fittings so I could solder it together with that same alignment. Took some creative shimming to recreate that alignment out of the fridge. It worked out splendidly!

Drain line outlet

Ram4ever — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 20:05:27 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Drain line outlet - IMG_3922.jpg

Inlet and outlet on 16 gauge steel reinforcing plate

Ram4ever — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 20:05:24 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Inlet and outlet on 16 gauge steel reinforcing plate - IMG_3923.jpg

I painted the steel plate with epoxy paint to make sure it doesn't corrode form all the condensation.

Finished Refrigerated Air Drier internals

Ram4ever — Wed, 4 Nov 2009 20:05:20 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Finished Refrigerated Air Drier internals - IMG_3928.jpg

This is it! Tested with 100 psi - no leaks! Plugged in the refrigerator and it's got frost in the freezer section so I'm all set. The only remaining work is to spray some foam or RTV in the holes where the pipes penetrate the walls, to reduce condensation buildup between the walls in the foam insulation.

Swag! -From 92 Dodge B350

Ram4ever — Tue, 3 Nov 2009 20:07:47 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Swag! -From 92 Dodge B350 - IMG_3912.jpg

Swag! -From 92 Dodge B350

Ram4ever — Tue, 3 Nov 2009 20:07:29 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Swag! -From 92 Dodge B350 - IMG_3911.jpg

New vs Original Neutral Safety Switch

Ram4ever — Mon, 2 Nov 2009 20:49:11 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

New vs Original Neutral Safety Switch - IMG_3892.jpg

3 ton 21" lift jack - only take 3 strokes to go full up!

Ram4ever — Mon, 2 Nov 2009 20:49:09 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

3 ton 21" lift jack - only take 3 strokes to go full up! - IMG_3893.jpg

3 ton 21" lift jack - only take 3 strokes to go full up!

Ram4ever — Mon, 2 Nov 2009 20:49:07 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

3 ton 21" lift jack - only take 3 strokes to go full up! - IMG_3894.jpg

Timbren SES Aeon air spring installed on driver side

Ram4ever — Mon, 2 Nov 2009 20:49:04 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Timbren SES Aeon air spring installed on driver side - IMG_3896.jpg

Aftermarket (installed) vs Original tailshaft seal

Ram4ever — Mon, 2 Nov 2009 20:49:02 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Aftermarket (installed) vs Original tailshaft seal - IMG_3897.jpg

There's nearly a 1/4" of additional coverage with the Mopar seal (the bottom one) so when the aftermarket seal began leaking almost from the beginning, there wasn't much of an excuse to repeat the experience. I put the Mopar seal on, and it stopped the leak, and will also keep the sliding tailshaft and seal area even cleaner.

Air Nibbler

Ram4ever — Mon, 2 Nov 2009 20:49:00 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Air Nibbler - IMG_3898.jpg

Headliner attached to furring strips

Ram4ever — Mon, 2 Nov 2009 00:02:24 MST

Ram4ever posted a photo

Headliner attached to furring strips - IMG_0079.jpg

Showcars Bodyparts rocker panels as received.

Ram4ever — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 01:38:19 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Showcars Bodyparts rocker panels as received. - IMG_3882.jpg

This is the packaging that the rocker panels arrived in. Looks like they've passed their incoming inspection!

Driver side rocker panels for Dodge B250 van

Ram4ever — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 01:38:16 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Driver side rocker panels for Dodge B250 van - IMG_3883.jpg

I've had these for several years now. It's just about time to get these installed.

Showcars Bodyparts rocker came from Taiwan

Ram4ever — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 01:38:15 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Showcars Bodyparts rocker came from Taiwan - IMG_3884.jpg

Rear bumper bent a little from a ball hitch

Ram4ever — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 01:38:13 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Rear bumper bent a little from a ball hitch - IMG_3885.jpg

I need to straighten this out so i can mount my new receiver hitch.

Haul Master 5000 pound step bumper receiver I want to mount under bumper

Ram4ever — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 01:38:11 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Haul Master 5000 pound step bumper receiver I want to mount under bumper - IMG_3886.jpg

This will bolt on under the plate visible on the bumper just beneath the receiver. 5000 pound tow capacity, 550 pound tongue weight. Got it at harbor Freight for $15.

Timbren SES Aeon DVR150 air spring in place for test fit

Ram4ever — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 01:38:09 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Timbren SES Aeon DVR150 air spring in place for test fit - IMG_3889.jpg

It fits with no gap between the rubber and the axle tube, so it should act as a sway bar.

Old vs new style Neutral safety switch for 727 transmission.

Ram4ever — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 02:12:17 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Old vs new style Neutral safety switch for 727 transmission. - IMG_3879.jpg

The new switch on the right, which is made by Standard simply is a poor replacement! The pins are spaced correctly, but are way too long, keeping the socket from seating at all, and the diameter of the plastic portion is too small by nearly 1/16", which would prevent the original connector from making a water-tight seal even if the pins were cut shorter. I'd only use one in an emergency. The original part is still available from Chrysler. I got one, and it was identical to the original. I've since found out that there is a difference in years: 5007747 Neutral Safety Switch — 3-Prong (1985–Present A-727/A-904) and 2932820 Neutral Safety Switch — Fits 1969 and up A-727 and A-904 BTW, the Chrysler part number has changed a bit; the 3747361 (on the left) is now a 1-03747361

Timbren SES Aeon DVR-150 air springs, and 1/2" and 2" spacers

Ram4ever — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 02:12:15 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Timbren SES Aeon DVR-150 air springs, and 1/2" and 2" spacers - IMG_3880.jpg

This is the entire kit, with the included offset steel spacers. The kit includes some washers and 1/2" fine thread steel bolts. I also purchased the 1/2" and 1" spacers, in case I decide to add more preload to tune the ride a bit. The spacers don't show up on the Timbren website - I got the numbers directly through their tech support people. The spacers are made out of hard rubber, with an unthreaded steel sleeve. The number for the 1/2" spacer is A25640, and the number for the 1" spacer is A25650. They're about $20 each plus shipping.

Timbren SES Aeon DVR-150 air springs

Ram4ever — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 02:12:13 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Timbren SES Aeon DVR-150 air springs - IMG_3881.jpg

Parts from wrecked Dodge B350 van

Ram4ever — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 02:17:47 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Parts from wrecked Dodge B350 van - DSCN1956.jpg

A practically new windshield gasket and locking strip, OEM swaybar & driver side frame bracket, complete instrument cluster with a voltmeter in place of an ammeter, both defrost vents and gaskets, the hood latch bars and hinges, the entire windshield wiper mechanism, a complete battery hold-down bracket with J-bolts, and a brake fluid reservoir and gaskets. I also got a perfect rear side marker lens! Altogether the damage was $50, inlcuding the side panel I cut off the B350 van.

Factory original swaybar from wrecked Dodge B350 van

Ram4ever — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 02:01:23 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Factory original swaybar from wrecked Dodge B350 van - DSCN1947.jpg

Despite the devastating impact to the passenger side, this sway bar was unaffected thanks to the movement of the end links. This swaybar is actually in even better condition than the one I have on my van right now, which had come from a heavily corroded shorty Dodge van. If mine ever snaps, I'll have a sweet OEM spare now!

Side panel from wrecked Dodge B350 van

Ram4ever — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 02:01:20 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Side panel from wrecked Dodge B350 van - DSCN1954.jpg

The driver side panel which I really wanted was wrinkled form the wreck this was in, so I settled for this side, which is actually quite straight, though about 1-1/2 feet shorter than I would have wished for. I cut this out with an abrasive grinder and a reciprocating saw, powered by my little Honda generator, which you can see at the left.

Paint supplies for the doors

Ram4ever — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 07:46:32 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Paint supplies for the doors - IMG_3871.jpg

This is about how much it should take to finish all the doors. It's all PPG paint - DP90LF black epoxy sealer, K36 primer/sealer, DMD1683 Black Tint, DBC9700 black basecoat, 2021 Clear, plus the various reducers, hardeners and catalysts, and DX330 wax and oil remover. I've also included a couple of cans of Rust Bullet, which I use particularly on interior panels as a heavy coating to prevent water from ever reaching a metal surface.

Hey!! You said we were going for ride...

Ram4ever — Mon, 12 Oct 2009 07:46:29 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Hey!! You said we were going for ride... - IMG_3872.jpg

It's hard to satisfy a Supervisor when you're running behind schedule!

Parts to make refrigerated air drier

Ram4ever — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 23:36:02 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Parts to make refrigerated air drier - IMG_3858.jpg

This should be a permanent solution to water and moisture in the air. The internal plumbing is 40 feet of 1/2 inch copper tubing. The automatic drain valve is my Tonair AD-24.

Parts for refrigerated air drier

Ram4ever — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 23:35:59 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Parts for refrigerated air drier - IMG_3859.jpg

This is a detail of the central sump which feed the automatic drain valve, which includes a novel anti-siphon brake I designed.

Assembled mockup of main components of refrigerated air drier

Ram4ever — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 23:35:57 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Assembled mockup of main components of refrigerated air drier - IMG_3860.jpg

Please note that the two 20 foot long coils of copper tubing will NOT be positioned this way in use - they will both spiral downwards towards the central sump. There will also be a 3/8" ball valve in the drain line to prevent the manual drain from applying backpressure to the internals during manual backflushes.

Tonair automatic drain valve for air compressor

Ram4ever — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 01:14:33 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Tonair automatic drain valve for air compressor - IMG_3846.jpg

I bought this mechanical drain valve on eBay. It's a good one, which is all stainless steel and anodized aluminum. It operates via an internal float. I'm going to install this on a long coil of copper tubing inside a compact refrigerator to act as a very effective air drier.

Why don't we go for a ride?

Ram4ever — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 01:10:20 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Why don't we go for a ride? - IMG_3801.jpg

The freshly painted front exhaust hanger I built

Ram4ever — Wed, 23 Sep 2009 01:10:17 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

The freshly painted front exhaust hanger I built - IMG_3803.jpg

After getting annoyed at how ugly the rusted metal on the hanger looked compared to all the new stuff underneath, I acid etched this and then painted it with high temperature ceramic paint. Looks much better, and hopefully it will live much longer!

Rust Bullet BlackShell paint

Ram4ever — Thu, 27 Aug 2009 15:25:28 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Rust Bullet BlackShell paint - BS-Gal-375x440.jpg

Really tough black undercarriage paint. I've used this on all of the undercarriage and suspension parts that needed painted. It's like an epoxy... Gasoline and Brake Fluid don't even bother it! A Master Mechanic who lives up the street from me and builds race cars swears by it - it's all he uses. Note - The Engineers at Rust Bullet advised me in a phone conversation that this contains so much carbon black, which has been derived from petroleum sources, that they don't recommend painting other types of paints over top of it - no guarantee of adhesion.

25 foot coil of 3/16 inch brake line being formed

Ram4ever — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:51:20 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

25 foot coil of 3/16 inch brake line being formed - IMG_3778.jpg

I needed to replace the rear brake line, which is about 8 feet long. The longest straight sections available here are 6 feet, so I had to buy a coil, and straighten it out as needed. It ended up being a good thing anyway; this is a MUCH higher quality brake line than the straight sections I've been getting. Wish I'd known about it sooner so I could have used it on the front brake lines!

The supervisor is impressed

Ram4ever — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:51:16 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

The supervisor is impressed - IMG_3780.jpg

This is the new rear brake line I just formed, sitting next to the original. Other than for the considerable length (nearly 8 feet!) this was actually very simple to form. It didn't have the protective springs over it like many of the other brake lines I've replaced.

Muffler heat shield underside coated with high temp paint

Ram4ever — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:51:13 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Muffler heat shield underside coated with high temp paint - IMG_3781.jpg

The muffler and catalytic converter heat shields were both still in great, uncorroded condition, due to being made of galvanized steel. I decided to paint them both with high temperature paint to extend their lives. This is the underside of the muffler heat shield, wiht the 1500 degree high temperature paint applied.

Rear mufler hanger right out of the Phosphoric acid

Ram4ever — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:51:09 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Rear mufler hanger right out of the Phosphoric acid - IMG_3782.jpg

Looks a lot better!!

Closeup of acid etched versus non-etched boundary

Ram4ever — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:51:04 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Closeup of acid etched versus non-etched boundary - IMG_3783.jpg

I had dunked the muffler hanger in a bottle of acid for about an hour. This shows the boundary between etched and non-etched surfaces. If it wasn't wet, it would have nearly the same color as the section of rusty railroad track it's resting on.

Muffler heat shield, it's front support and rear muffler hanger

Ram4ever — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:50:59 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Muffler heat shield, it's front support and rear muffler hanger - IMG_3785.jpg

I decided to apply undercoating to the top surfaces of the heat shield and it's front support to keep the metal in as good a condition as possible.

Rear muffler hanger freshly refinished

Ram4ever — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:50:56 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Rear muffler hanger freshly refinished - IMG_3786.jpg

This is now covered with 1500 degree high temperature paint, and is ready to go.

Undercoating

Ram4ever — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:50:51 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Undercoating - IMG_3788.jpg

Undercoating

Ram4ever — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:50:48 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Undercoating - IMG_3789.jpg

Undercoating

Ram4ever — Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:50:45 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Undercoating - IMG_3790.jpg

Transtar Undercoating

Ram4ever — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 01:49:07 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Transtar Undercoating - IMG_3767.jpg

I undercoated the entire underneath of the van with this type undercoating. It's as close to the original undercaoting on the van as I've been able to locate.

Undercoating finished - driver side rear wheel

Ram4ever — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 01:49:04 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Undercoating finished - driver side rear wheel - IMG_3769.jpg

Patched coating with seam sealer

Ram4ever — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 01:49:02 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Patched coating with seam sealer - IMG_3770.jpg

There was an area where the original spray-on coating had peeled up. I removed it, then patched it with 3M seam sealer. I believe it's original intent was to absorb impacts from gravel, so the paint wouldn't get damaged, leading to rust. Remember, once upon a time, things really *were* made to last in the USA...

Coating on inner fender well behind rear driver side wheel arch.

Ram4ever — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 01:48:59 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Coating on inner fender well behind rear driver side wheel arch. - IMG_3771.jpg

This area appears to have been coated with a thick spray-on seam sealer type material, which would absorb impacts, keeping rocks from chipping the paint.

Fender flare installed with new stainless Hex-head machine screws

Ram4ever — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 01:48:57 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Fender flare installed with new stainless Hex-head machine screws - IMG_3773.jpg

These are the 6-32 by 1-1/4 inch stainless machine screws, stainless fender washers, and rubber washers.

Coil of brake line

Ram4ever — Sat, 15 Aug 2009 01:48:55 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Coil of brake line - IMG_3774.jpg

One of the rear table base pocket mounting screws blew into the brake line, leaving almost no metal... I'm amazed it didn't fail during my test drives. This section of the brake line goes to the flex hose for the rear end, and is about 8 feet long. The longest straight piece I could get locally was 6 feet, so I had to buy a 25 foot coil.

Stainless, Nylon & Rubber fastener parts for fender flares

Ram4ever — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 23:38:50 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Stainless, Nylon & Rubber fastener parts for fender flares - IMG_3765.jpg

Due to the fenders having two pieces of sheet metal in some areas, it's necessary to use a longer shoulder washer and bolt to protect the painted edge of the holes through the fenders. That's why there's two different sizes of machine screw and shoulder washer - the short ones work for the single sheet metal thickness. I bought all of these fasteners at McMaster-Carr. The screws are hex-head 6-32 stainless machine screws. I tried Phillips and flat head screws, but it was too difficult to get the screwdrivers on the screws, even with right angle drivers. The hex head screws solve all the issues related to getting a tool onto the screw. A standard box-end or open-end wrench does the trick.

Holes drilled in fender for fender flares

Ram4ever — Mon, 3 Aug 2009 01:29:09 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Holes drilled in fender for fender flares - IMG_3731.jpg

Since I'm using long-tube nylon shoulder washers to prevent the screw threads from cutting into the paint, these holes are rather larger than the #6-32 stainless machine screws... They're about 3/16" diameter. I deburred them on both sides by using the conical end of a much larger drill bit, about a 3/8".

Holes drilled in fender - painted inside with RustBullet Automotive paint

Ram4ever — Mon, 3 Aug 2009 01:29:06 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Holes drilled in fender - painted inside with RustBullet Automotive paint - IMG_3732.jpg

Holes drilled in fender flare

Ram4ever — Mon, 3 Aug 2009 01:29:05 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Holes drilled in fender flare - IMG_3734.jpg

Van with fender flares installed

Ram4ever — Mon, 3 Aug 2009 01:29:02 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Van with fender flares installed - IMG_3739.jpg

Front view of fender flares - "Muttonchop" sideburns!

Ram4ever — Mon, 3 Aug 2009 01:29:00 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Front view of fender flares - "Muttonchop" sideburns! - IMG_3740.jpg

Front view of fender flare and air dam

Ram4ever — Mon, 3 Aug 2009 01:28:57 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Front view of fender flare and air dam - IMG_3741.jpg

I think the air dam bites the big one! Seems to sit a bit too low overall and lower on left than the right. It should mate with the bottom of the front crossmember, and even has the correct curve molded in it's top... just can't get there when it lines up with the bottom of the fender flares. Guess I get to do some fiberglass work! *Just* what I needed... more fixing of new parts!

Side view of fender flare and air dam

Ram4ever — Mon, 3 Aug 2009 01:28:54 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Side view of fender flare and air dam - IMG_3742.jpg

"Sound Package" splash shields

Ram4ever — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 02:27:32 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

"Sound Package" splash shields - IMG_3415.jpg

In my Dodge parts manual there's a mention of a "Sound Package" and this rough drawing of a pair of larger than normal splash shields, which appear to have cutouts for the upper control arms. There's normally only one splash shield, and it's for the alternator side and is small, just reaching the front of the control arm. The fact that Chrysler mentions a "Sound Package" got me thinking that I'd really like it a lot if it can reduce the interior noise *any*, so I set about making my own. BTW, the driver's side will look a bit different due to the brake hold-off/proportioning valve and power steering gear, but it will largely look similar.

Charcoal Canisters back in place after hose repairs, painting and undercoating

Ram4ever — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 01:58:46 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Charcoal Canisters back in place after hose repairs, painting and undercoating - IMG_3722.jpg

I repaired two cracked hoses, and also stripped, phosphided and painted the canister brackets and support plates, and undercoated the entire area. Reassembled using stainless fasteners. It looks much more respectable now. If my extended splash shield works out as planned, it should help a lot with keeping the area clean in the future too!

Pattern for extended splash guard for noise reduction

Ram4ever — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 01:58:43 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Pattern for extended splash guard for noise reduction - IMG_3724.jpg

In my Dodge parts manual there's a mention of a "Sound Package" and a rough drawing of a pair of larger than normal splash shields, which appear to have cutouts for the upper control arms. There's normally only one splash shield, and it's for the alternator and is small, just reaching the front of a control arm. The fact that Chrysler mentions a "Sound Package" got me thinking that I'd really like it a lot if it can reduce the interior noise any, so I set about making my own design, with the images in the manual and from a fellow Vanner, Phoenix, who has a driver side splash shield he made, as my guidance. After lots of fooling around with newspaper, duct tape and a pile of magnets to hold it in place, this is what I came up with. it's about 4 feet long. I'm going to make mine out of 1/8" neoprene sheet. The original Mopar splash shield material was fabric reinforced 1/8" neoprene, but at $50 per linear foot, that's not happening! Standard high temperature Neoprene I got is about $10 per linear foot. BTW, the driver's side will look a bit different due to the brake hold-off/proportioning valve and power steering gear, but it will largely look similar.

Aww, Crap! A special emissions hose I cut off... and it's fix

Ram4ever — Sat, 25 Jul 2009 23:32:24 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Aww, Crap! A special emissions hose I cut off... and it's fix - IMG_3721.jpg

While undercoating around my dual charcoal canister system, I discovered that this old hardened hose was starting to crack at the canister end. Rather than risk damaging the plastic fitting on the canister, I slit the hose with a razor, and did the same at the other end, which is the vapor line which goes directly to the gas tank. When I got the hose down, I noticed to my dismay that the ends were different sizes!! Ouch - it was a special hose... 5/16" at one end, 3/16" at the other. A trip to the local parts store didn't turn up any adapters to go between the hose sizes, so I was getting ready to head to the next town over to Lowe's plumbing hardware section when an "Old Timer" at the parts store came over, looked at it, ran off to the back of the store and came back with this beautiful brass wonder he put together out of three pieces. It's awesome! It's even better than I would have come up with at Lowe's, since the multi-barb fittings Lowe's would have would tend to slip even with hose clamps... these fittings were made for use with clamps. I dropped in a couple of sections of new fuel/EGR rated hose, and now my system is now sealed back up again!

Last one of it's kind? - the Cruise Control Lost Motion Link

Ram4ever — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 23:37:02 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Last one of it's kind? - the Cruise Control Lost Motion Link - IMG_3717.jpg

The "missing link" to perfect cruise control function? We'll see in short order. It takes up lost motion and prevents binding in the mechanism. This is the correct coupling between the cruise control cable and the throttle linkage. Also notice the coil spring pin which holds the link in place - this is another "made of unobtanium" NOS part, and is really the only possible way for the link to move freely. A screw would grab or be too sloppy, and a regular roll pin would fall out. Since there aren't any more of these links available, I've phosphide treated it and painted it with RustBullet BlackShell for the maximum possible protection.

Kickdown linkage closeup with lost motion link installed

Ram4ever — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 23:37:00 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Kickdown linkage closeup with lost motion link installed - IMG_3718.jpg

This shows the clearance the link has with the original throttle linkage stud.

The correct kickdown, throttle, and cruise control linkage configuration

Ram4ever — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 23:36:57 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

The correct kickdown, throttle, and cruise control linkage configuration - IMG_3719.jpg

Thanks to my having purchased an entire NOS Chrysler dealer's cruise control installation kit for full size vans, I obtained the lost motion link, and installed it now, for a totally correct configuration. The angle the cruise control cable comes in at is much better than the previous arrangement, which applied some significant downward drag on it.

Anti-jimmy plate for hood latch

Ram4ever — Fri, 17 Jul 2009 23:36:54 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Anti-jimmy plate for hood latch - IMG_3720.jpg

This wasn't originally installed on my van, but I'd seen several of these in other vans, so I grabbed them, then cleaned up, painted, and installed this one.

NOS in box splash shield seals were rotted!!

Ram4ever — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 04:20:41 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

NOS in box splash shield seals were rotted!! - IMG_3704.jpg

This is the most I can make up out of the fragments

Ram4ever — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 04:20:39 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

This is the most I can make up out of the fragments - IMG_3706.jpg

There's just enough intact fragments for me to determine the original shape and dimensions of the splash shield seals, so I should be able to replicate them.

Mechanical drawing of what a splash shield seal should look like

Ram4ever — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 04:20:36 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Mechanical drawing of what a splash shield seal should look like - IMG_3707.jpg

The layout makes sense, and is easy enough for me to draw it with a hand compass and cut it out with scissors.

My newly cut splash shield seals.

Ram4ever — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 04:20:35 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

My newly cut splash shield seals. - IMG_3709.jpg

I made these out of polyethylene sheet foam packing material, which should be nearly immortal compared to the ratty foam rubber Chrysler originally used.

My splash shield seal fitted onto the spindle - it works great!

Ram4ever — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 04:20:29 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

My splash shield seal fitted onto the spindle - it works great! - IMG_3710.jpg

The polyethylene foam stretches just enough that it acts like a rubber band, and grips the spindle, which eliminates the need for any type of adhesive.

Splash shield installed with seal in place

Ram4ever — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 04:20:25 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Splash shield installed with seal in place - IMG_3711.jpg

Splash shield seal installed with a grease seal showing their relative positions

Ram4ever — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 04:20:22 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Splash shield seal installed with a grease seal showing their relative positions - IMG_3712.jpg

The splash shield seal climbs up on the spindle to the point that it nearly contacts the rubber extension of the wheel bearing grease seal. It should prove very effective at keeping water and debris away from the seal area.

Looking good!

Ram4ever — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 04:20:19 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Looking good! - IMG_3713.jpg

The new rotor fits and spins great, and I've got the preload set correctly, and have installed a new cotter pin. It's finally getting there!

Fully assembled

Ram4ever — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 04:20:16 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Fully assembled - IMG_3714.jpg

All that remains is to attach the flex brake line, fill it and bleed the system.

Closeup of clip, anti-rattle spring and new bleeder with cap

Ram4ever — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 04:20:12 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Closeup of clip, anti-rattle spring and new bleeder with cap - IMG_3715.jpg

I used stainless bolts throughout the brake assy. One of the sweetest benefits of having bought the rebuilt brake calipers, is that they included the nifty blue captive bleeder screw caps. The fit right onto my new check ball bleeders, as you can see here.

A large visitor

Ram4ever — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 04:20:09 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

A large visitor - IMG_3716.jpg

Brand new front rotor and brake pads

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:52 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Brand new front rotor and brake pads - IMG_3672.jpg

The new rotor cost $53, and comes with the bearing races already pressed in. It looks to be a quality piece; I'll probably replace the passenger side one of these days too. I already had bought the pads on sale a couple years ago.

Faulty ways on new brake caliper - right out of the box!

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:49 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Faulty ways on new brake caliper - right out of the box! - IMG_3673.jpg

I got both rebuilt calipers, but today when I went to paint them and started to mask the ways, I found out that one of the ways was totally hosed on one caliper, with about half of it missing, (!!) so I took it back. Of course, the other two they had were *astonishingly* worse! I mean totally unsafe - big wear gouges, ridges, and missing metal... there's obviously no quality control involved, since they were all painted over, in that condition, and that's one of the few areas that needs to be inspected on *any* brake caliper. I got on the counterperson about that - we're talking maxi-van here, and there's no 2nd chances - when I step on that brake pedal; it's got to work, and as well as possible. They ordered 2 more just to be safe. This will be my 3rd trip back, because I already swapped the other caliper when I discovered it had a different piston... maybe it was for the 4000 pound axles and they mis-labelled it. And another had a rolled seal!! What a pain! $15 - yah, right; plus about another $10 in gas and 4 hours of my time, and two days of prime painting weather lost! Moral of the story: carefully inspect any brake components you buy - before leaving the store! They're likely rebuilt from cores, and there's going to be a reason they were exchanged in the first place, and the reason may be ugly...

A strong start to adding more insulation to the doghouse

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:47 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

A strong start to adding more insulation to the doghouse - IMG_3676.jpg

Partially done with the insulation installation

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:44 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Partially done with the insulation installation - IMG_3677.jpg

I tried to use the foil-faced Frost King duct insulation as efficiently as possible so as to not waste much, so I made the insulation with mostly large pieces up to here. The remaining pieces will come from the ends I already cut off.

The Frost King duct insulation is done!

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:41 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

The Frost King duct insulation is done! - IMG_3679.jpg

I only had to use a few small pieces to fill the gaps.

Sprayed with Scotch Super 77 spray contact adhsesive

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:38 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Sprayed with Scotch Super 77 spray contact adhsesive - IMG_3680.jpg

In addition to adding the foil-faced duct insulation, I decided to cover the entire surface with food-service grade heavy aluminum foil, to totally cover the seams in the duct insulation. So, I sprayed the entire interior with Scotch Super 77 spray contact adhesive. I also sprayed the backing of the aluminum foil to insure a firm grip.

Finished with a layer of commercial food-industry heavy grade aluminum foil

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:36 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Finished with a layer of commercial food-industry heavy grade aluminum foil - IMG_3681.jpg

The sun is finally lower, so it's not so hot, and I'm ready to go!

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:33 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

The sun is finally lower, so it's not so hot, and I'm ready to go! - IMG_3682.jpg

Masked and ready to paint

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:29 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Masked and ready to paint - IMG_3683.jpg

Just painted - picture with all the support equipment

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:25 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Just painted - picture with all the support equipment - IMG_3684.jpg

Freshly painted rotor, calipers, and a number of small parts

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:22 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Freshly painted rotor, calipers, and a number of small parts - IMG_3685.jpg

These all got painted with RustBullet Blackshell.

That looks like it might actually work!

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:19 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

That looks like it might actually work! - IMG_3686.jpg

It's great to have such a voice of experience give the nod of approval.

Stainless stell fasteners for the Doghouse

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:16 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Stainless stell fasteners for the Doghouse - IMG_3688.jpg

I used #10x3/4" countersunk stainless screws with stainless finishing washers for on the cabin side, and stainless fender washers and stainless nylok nuts for on the engine compartment side.

Freshly painted brackets for side pipes and some carb linkage parts

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:12 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Freshly painted brackets for side pipes and some carb linkage parts - IMG_3689.jpg

I used RustBullet Blackshell on these parts.

Self bleeders with caps for the front brakes

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:20:10 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

Self bleeders with caps for the front brakes - IMG_3690.jpg

These have an internal check ball to prevent air from sneaking back up inside during one person bleeding operations. These are a 3/8" hex, with a 3/8" SAE thread. The plastic caps are awesome - they came with the new calipers, and are probably worth part of the $15 each all by themselves!

New upper window door seals

Ram4ever — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:05:19 MDT

Ram4ever posted a photo

New upper window door seals - IMG_3651.jpg

I got these from Rockauto.com, and they look pretty nice. When I repaint my doors I'll replace all of the rubber and the channel flocking. The upper two parts here are the driver and passenger side flocking. The lower pieces are the curved part of the window channel.